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Indian politician Shashi Tharoor’s wife Sunanda Pushkar was seen in a Aada Dupatta at a recent do.
Pushkar who hails from Kashmir wore a Aada dupatta, on a white net with a cutwork border in while and gold.
. Aada Dupatta is draped like a saree on a pyjama and kurtani with the pallu almost like that of a saree.
The cutwork border is an interesting piece although. It has light gold/whitish masnad ka kaam combined with cutwork and the corners are decorated with a fine gota patthi border on either side. Surely seems like an heirloom piece.
Something like this done on a darker color combined with our traditional Hyderabadi border elements like Almas would look nice an elegant.
The popularity of the outfit is stretching far and wide beyond the circle of Hyderabadi muslim families. Which is great!!!
I hold in high esteem the outfit of khada dupatta, not just as the ideal bridal dress of Hyderabadi folk but also a memory of the legacy, history and heritage of our city. Like many things, the outfit also became a fashion victim.
Here’s my take on what could go wrong with this beautiful outfit -
Its a trend at Lad Bazar and Patthergatti to sell khada dupattas with heavy embroidery, perhaps because it looks grand or maybe because some people have a taste for it. These outfits are priced at less than Rs.15,000 and usually available readily at shops.
No offence to people who like such outfits, but the beauty of the outfit gets completely dissolved in the heavy and loud embroidery on them. Making them loud and distasteful eventually washing out the bride completely on the day she dreams to look her best ever.
I often wonder, if these outfits would ever be the torch bearers of the beauty of the legacy of the khada dupatta to the forthcoming generations. Something that they could proudly sport even after 20-25 years as vintage designs from their mother’s wardrobe.
Another thing that could wrong with the khada dupatta is the drape. The beauty of the draping style lies in putting both the ends of the pallu put on the left shoulder and not one on each shoulder, even though it is easier to have it each on each shoulder, but it looks discerning!
Some people try and experiment with the border, not often does it turn out to be beautiful, resulting in a colossal waste of money and effort. Pity the poor bride who has to wear it!
I wish I could tell people that within a limited budget you can make a grand and lovely khada dupatta for your daughter-in-law (because mostly moms in law choose outfits for the bride), within Rs.15,000. Something that she can cherish for a lifetime and pass it down to her next generation.
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Khada Dupatta has been the traditional bridal outfit for Hyderabadi brides for ages, and perfectly complimenting this grand outfit is the traditional Hyderabadi Jewellery.
Here’s a look at some of the exclusive Hyderabadi Jewellery -
CHINTAAK or JADA HUA LACHCHA
The chintaak – commonly known as a choker, has been a part of Hyderabad’s legacy from time immemorial. It was named as chintaak in Farsi or Persian language and in Urdu it was referred to as Jada hua lachcha or a studded necklace. Studded with pure almas or uncut diamonds in 18 carat gold. And all dull green emerald drops or avezas hanging down to complete the look. The bridal look is supposed to be incomplete without the jada hua lachcha!
Maang Teeka usually compliments the jada hua laccha. The best traditional ones are studded with almas and have pearl drops hanging down. The teeka used to be the symbol of pride of the wives of nobles and kings. The round shape of the teeka is a symbol of the shield men carry at war and the two bead heads on the teeka symbolize the handles of the swords placed criss-crossed over the shield.
Karan Phool – the jhumkas are again a part of the set. A flower studded with almas or pukhraj with a studded jhumka hanging down. A very lovely piece of jewellery, and my personal favorite. Goes with just about every outfit. Gorgeous!
Seven strings of Hyderabadi pearls woven together adorned with avezas, uncut diamonds, and gold.
Jhoomar is another part of the Hyderabadi bridal jewellery. Studded with emeralds and almas in 18 carat gold woven with Hyderabadi pearl strings.
Symbol of the bride’s purity, honor and chastity. The Hyderabadi nath is a big gold ring with a big ruby bead amidst two pearl beads… to complete the bridal look.
STUDDED BANGLE JODA
Studded Hyderabadi bangles Joda – a Hyderabadi speciality. A set of 14 bangles with reflective crystals in various hues for the bride.
Khada Dupatta could never be complete without the complete jewellery… Its beauty is enhanced best with the exquisite Hyderabadi Bridal Jewellery.
Owning a piece of such jewellery is like owning a piece of art and a part of Hyderabadi heritage. If you wish to own one in semi precious stones and real Hyderabadi Jewellery. You can buy it from us -
The royal ensemble of Khada Dupatta remains a part of the Hyderabadi culture in form of the traditional and bridal dress that brides and bridesmaids wear till date at weddings.
Some brides wear a simple yellow khada dupatta for their manje or haldi ceremony, which is a closely guarded family affair with ladies of the family applying haldi to the bride and felicitating her with garlands.
Some brides wear it at their sanchaq ki rasm, where the groom’s mother showers bridal finery on her along with blessings.
This is the first time the groom’s family gets to see the bride before the wedding and she knows that she’s got to look her best. Shades of yellow and gold are the colors for the sanchaq ka khada dupatta with freshly applied and dried mehendi on her hands. All her bridesmaids – sisters and friends wearing their traditional khada dupattas gather to meet the groom for the Mehendi ki rasm.
The bridal khada dupatta is ideally what the groom’s family would get for her along with complimenting jewellery. The shades of reds and pinks blend in with gold and greens adding to the glowing bride’s beauty, who sits blushing on a heavily embroidered red velvet ‘masnad’.
The Hyderabadi wedding festivities come to a halt with the valima. Where the bride choses to wear a lehenga or a gharara.
You can choose your dream wedding dress here - http://www.khadadupatta.com/ltd-portfolio/gallery-03/
The elegant outfit of Khada Dupatta may look very complicated to drape and people may wonder – ‘How to wear a khada dupatta’. But its absolutely simple if you follow these simple step by step guidelines to wear a khada dupatta.
All khada dupattas have the center part, almost about a foot long where the border is not attached. Once you put on the kurta and pyjama. Neatly tuck the dupatta from the exact center (where there is no border/masala stitched) into your pyjama from behind over your butt.
Once you tuck the center part of the dupatta in your pyjama. You will see both the ends of the khada dupatta on each side of you. Pick up the end from the left side and arrange it neatly in pleats (like how you pleat the saree). After you pleat the end, place it neatly over your left shoulder. Makes sure both the sides of the masala/border are clearly placed on your shoulder. Check if the dupatta is falling neatly from over the side in a nice curve and doesn’t fall in your feet while walking. Once the dupatta is set right, pin it firmly on to the kurta so that the dupatta doesn’t slip down.
Take the right side, the remaining side of the border and pleat it the same way to place it on your left shoulder again. Check again if the dupatta is falling neatly from over the side in a nice curve and doesn’t fall in your feet while walking. Once the dupatta is set right, slightly pull the right side of the border across your chest to cover it and pin it near the waist so that the chest remains covered. Check if the remaining three sides of the masala are falling neatly on your left shoulder in a row.
The Khada dupatta is also worn by putting the dupatta ends at both the shoulders, although that’s not a traditional style but it is said to be easier to carry with the load of the heavy borders divided on both the shoulders. I wont recommend it but you can try that too.
The khada dupatta is an upright stole or a standing veil where a 6 yard long dupatta is draped over a churidar and kurta.
The Hyderabadi Khada Dupatta is just another variation among the different styles of draping the saree. The Maharashtrians’ Kashta drape, the Oriyans and Bengali drape, the Madisaara style, Kodagu style or the Nivi style.
Khada dupatta is worn by Muslim women of the Deccan plateau and so the influence can be seen with the addition of a long kurta and a pyjama ensuring maximum coverage unlike in the other forms of saree draping that involve a small choli or a blouse exposing the midriff.
The Khada Dupatta was not only worn by the royalty during the Qutub Shahi era, the Asaf Jahis and the Nizams, but commoners also wore this outfit. There dresses though would be simple mul cotton khada dupattas with a choli kurti and cotton pyjamas for daily wear.
For special occasions, the khada dupattas would be woven in silk with pure gold and silver threads. It was common for people to own sanchi(woven in gold or silver) sarees and khada dupattas back in time.
The legacy of the Hyderabadi Khada Dupatta is still kept alive by Hyderabadis as it remains the official traditional bridal dress for Hyderabadi brides and bridesmaids.
For more. See – http://www.khadadupatta.com/ltd-portfolio/